I've not seen lamb kidneys in the store for years and years

I do not tend to see them in most stores around here these
days. I would not be surprised if they were at H-Mart, the
Korean Grocery store in the area.

Somebody somewhere is selling them and people are buying and eating
them. They are even more delicately textured and milder tasting
than milk fed baby veal kidneys which are milder than beef ones

I like lamb kidneys very much, partially
because they don't have much of an ovine
aspect, but young veal kidneys are equually
excellent.

which in turn are much, much nicer than the pork variety. They are

Pig kidneys are pretty porky, but I wonder if
young porkers' kidneys, same point in the relative
lifespan as veal, wouldn't be better.

not on offer in Yellowknife but when I've come across them in
Edmonton or Ottawa they were definitely premium priced.

What's the offal situation in general up there?

From the Quebec based Metro Stores website:
All About Kidneys
"Advice From My Butcher"
Whether barbecued or braised, kidneys are a tasty way to add more
protein to your diet. Veal and lamb kidneys are the most tender and flavourful, while pork and beef kidneys are stronger in taste and
have firmer texture.

All true, but the protein angle shouldn't be
uppermost in anyone's mind.

Select plump, shiny, and firm kidneys that do not smell of ammonia.
Beef, veal and pork kidneys should be surrounded by a shiny membrane
and covered with a layer of white fat.
Beef and lamb kidneys are dark brown; pork kidneys are light
reddish-brown; and veal kidneys are light brown.

And what of their appearance - I prefer the smooth
appreance of lamb kidneys.

To reduce the strong taste and aroma, soak kidneys in boiling water

Tell it like it is, please! The word is p-e-e.

for a few minutes and then drain. Alternatively, they can be soaked
in salted water and lemon juice in the refrigerator for an hour or
two. Rinse in cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

Blanching them for "a few minutes" would
vitiate their goodness in the case of lamb
and perhaps veal. Seconds? Cold water?

(I split them in half and soak them in salted water, then a mixture
of water and skim milk, Then when sauteeing them I sear them
briefly in oil and remove them, discarding the oil and then wiping
the pan clean. Next I finish sauteeing them a second time in
butter.-JW)

I split them in half and scoop out the white
core if I don't think they smell clean enough.

The fat and surrounding membrane of all kidneys should be removed
before cooking.

The fat can be used if it's not contaminated.
A source of that suet that we imagine is so
hard to find.

Pork and beef kidneys are best braised. Quickly saute the kidneys,
add broth and vegetables, reduce heat, cover and simmer until
tender.

Drain the first set of juices.

Veal and lamb kidneys have the best texture and flavour - they can
be pan-fried or grilled on the barbecue.
Cook kidneys only until the center is no longer red. Avoid
overcooking which makes them chewy.

Good advice.

Kidneys pair particularly well with tomatoes, mushrooms, mustard,
lemon juice, cream, Madeira and Sherry.

That's to say just about everything.

turning once midway through the process. When cooked, let the
kidneys drain on a screen or sieve to reduce the bitterness.

Tell it like it is, please!

zinc. They have relatively little fat but are very high in
cholesterol.

Organ meats in general are high in cholesterol,
with kidneys being sort of in the middle, above
gizzards and hearts but below sweetbreads and liver.

Rognons de porc a la creme
categories: french, offal, main, starter
servings: 4

4 pork kidneys
250 g button mushrooms
500 ml thick creme fraiche
150 ml dry white wine
1 lg onion, minced
1 shallot. minced
2 Tb butter
1 Tb mustard (opt)
1 Tb olive oil
s, p

Pork kidneys in cream sauce

The night before. Use a sharp-pointed knife to remove the
membrane around the kidneys. Remove tubes. Cut kidneys in
half lengthwise. Soak them in a mixture of vinegar and
water. Cover and refrigerate, changing the water a few times.

Next day, rinse in cool running water and then cut into 2 cm
pieces. Frain and dry. Heat 1 Tb butter and saute them
until browned. Do not overcook. Drain and set aside.

Slice the mushrooms thin. In another pan, saute them in
1 Tb butter for 5 min.

In a large pan, saute the onion and shallot in the oil.
When they are translucent, add the kidney pieces and the
mushrooms. Cook 5 min, add the wine, correct seasoning,
and cook 15 min more.

Add the cream and the optional mustard. Lower the heat
and let simmer 15 min, stirring regularly. Serve as an
appetizer or as a main course accompanied by mashed
potatoes or basmati rice.

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